Yasothon Rocket Festival

The original idea was to fire rockets into the sky to entice the gods to start the rain needed for the rice to grow. Most famously in Yasothon, Bang Fai Festival on May 8-9 has now become two days of riotous partying, Isaan-style. On the 8th, highly decorated floats parade for half a day through the town, with bands and dancers on stages, plus katoey "back home" from their Pattaya cabarets.

Little exposed to foreigners, Yasothon's genuinely warm to visitors, who often end up covered in mud, dancing in the street to obscure mor lam tunes with someone they've only just met. Mekong whisky may be forced down your throat, but so what, go for it!

Along the street, bundles of small rockets are tied together like strings of garlic. To launch them, young boys hold them between their fingers, light the tapers and at just the right moment throw them into the sky. Incredibly, few accidents are reported.

Sunday May 9 is when the rockets are launched in Phaya Thaen Park to see which'll stay in the air longest. Made of blue plastic piping, packed with gunpowder and tied to a bamboo pole, the rockets come in two classes: up to 12 kg. of gunpowder and up to 120 kg.

Teams draw for the firing order and up to eight men carry their rocket to the launch site, where it's winched into position and lashed to a giant metal ladder some 50 feet long, angled skyward. A tanoy announcement to clear the site is followed by hushed silence, then a shrill hissing and a belch of black smoke as the thrust breaks the rocket from its mooring, sending into the bright blue sky. A good launch draws cheers from the crowd who shade their eyes to follow its progress.

Exactly how the judges determine the length of flight seems a mystery. Last year's under-12 kg. winner was Khun Bann Pai, who won Baht 5,000 for his rocket staying aloft 185 secs. In the 120 kg. class, Khun Phi Pak Chan picked up Baht 15,000 for a flight of 145 secs.

How to Reach Yasothon from Bangkok

Road
Take airport expressway, then Route 1 to Saraburi, Route 2 to Khorat, and onto Prathai and Phaykapum Phiasi to take Route 202 to Yasothon.

Bus
Overnight VIP bus from new Morchit II Bus Station at 9.30 pm., Baht 420.

Train
Closest station is Ubon Ratchatani with a daily 7 pm. departure from BKK, 3rd class Baht 155, 2 nd class aircon sleeper Baht 601, 1st class sleeper Baht 1,040.

Air
Thai fly to Ubon Ratchatani, 91 km. east, four times a day, round trip Y-class Baht 2,810, J-class Baht 4,410 plus Baht 60 dep tax. PB Air fly to Roi-et, 67 km. west, on Mon, Tue, Thur and Sat, Y-class round trip Baht 2,920 plus Baht 60. Ground transport available from both airports to yasothon.